Trekking in Iceland
TREKKING IN ICELAND
A journey unlike anywhere else on Earth
By Kevin J. Rosenberg, Owner & Lead Guide
ICELAND’S LAUGAVEGUR
A true bucket list adventure
For years you’ve listened to stories of friends’ trips to Iceland and marveled at their photos. Though depending on when you go the temperature may be chilly the people are very warm and welcoming and recognize that they are fortunate to inhabit some of the newest land in the world that is also breathtakingly beautiful.
Travel to Iceland has increased exponentially over the last decade due in part to its proximity to the East Coast of the US (It’s the same distance from NYC as Los Angeles), cheap airfare, and Instagram worthy scenery at seemingly every turn. Most tourists that visit Iceland only see Reykjavik, the capital, and the immediate vicinity out to about 70 miles (112 km). It’s totally worth traveling to Iceland to see even this small portion which includes the well know “Golden Circle” and if you only have a long weekend and have never been I highly recommend you go.
If however you want to really experience Iceland and see what truly makes it special you need to strap on a backpack, leave the crowds of Reykjavik behind, and venture into the interior for a bucket list adventure you’ll be talking about for years. Not only is Iceland one of the youngest land masses in the world, it sits on top of a volcanic hotspot and is still growing, stretching the country towards the east and west. This dynamic geology creates a landscape that can vary every 10 miles with sepia toned rhyolite lava leading to fields of glass like obsidian and black sand deserts from recent eruptions that give way to mossy plateaus over basalt columns and storybook waterfalls.
One of my favorite treks is Iceland’s Laugavegur Trek which translates as ‘Hot Springs Road’. The name comes from the geothermally heated streams that flow near Landmannalauger, the starting point for most people looking to hike the Laugavegur. Most people will complete the trek in 4 days, though some combine the first 2 days into 1 and others add on an extra day so that they can hike right to the coast and take in the 200’ high Skógafoss waterfall.
Regardless of the itinerary you choose you must either stay or camp at the mountain huts along the way. Camping in between huts is strictly forbidden in order to protect the land, the beauty of which is why you’re trekking there in the first place. I’ve camped at the huts and stayed inside and though I love spending the night in my tent, these huts are just too nice to pass up if you can afford it and more importantly, if you can get a reservation.
The huts are all geothermally heated with mattresses provided in bunkrooms. They come with gas cooking stoves as well as the cookware and crockery you need to prepare a nice hot meal at the end of the day. On the luxurious side, 2 of the 3 huts even boast coin operated showers. The fee for staying in the huts is ISK 9,500 ($66) but you’ll need to reserve well in advance. I reserve space for my groups over a year in advance to make sure our clients are taken care of. If you choose to camp at the huts the fee is ISK 400 ($2.78) if you book in advance and ISK 500 ($3.48) if you pay at the hut.
If you plan to camp you should be prepared for winter camping as significant snowfall is common even during the summer months at the higher elevation huts. This makes the huts particularly attractive as it’s nice to come in out of the cold and snow, take off your boots, and enjoy a hot meal around a table you are sharing with fellow travelers from all over the world. Just make sure you bring earplugs because someone nearby will be snoring and if you don’t believe that, it’s probably you.
Sharing a hut with folks from around the world is one of the things I enjoy most about trekking. It’s great to share foods and stories and learn about different cultures. Because Iceland is so unique it has universal appeal that draws a more diverse crowd than other treks and I’ve met people from South America, Europe, the Middle East, and South Asia on my multiple journeys along the Laugavegur.
The real highlight of course is the landscape. Trekking south from Landmannalaugar you begin with sepia toned rhyolite lava as you climb past sulfur and steam vents. After a few hours you enter a field of glass like obsidian lava but depending on the weather this may be mostly covered by snow. It is almost guaranteed that as you climb towards the Hrafntinnusker hut you will be hiking in snow at some point so make sure you dress appropriately.
Day 2 begins as you leave the hut and cross a mogul like landscape of hills and snow bridges before reaching an overlook offering sweeping views of Lake Álftavatn and the strikingly beautiful contrast of lush green moss, snowy peaks, and black lava rocks that characterize the valley below and leads towards the Mýrdalsjökull Glacier in the distance. This is a relatively short day which leaves time to stroll around the lake once you reach the hut or take just the necessities and venture up into the mountains that rise up from her shoreline.
On day 3 you’ll soon pass an old shepherds’ cabin that now serves to support the horse tours you might encounter as you approach the Hvanngil hut. Hvanngil is also an overnight option for night 2 if Álftavatn is full, though it’s not as picturesque. Soon after leaving Hvanngil you’ll enter the black desert formed by the 2010 eruption of nearby Eyjafjallajökull. The dark ash is as fine as sand and it’s fun to run down the soft dunes as you make your towards Emstrur, the final hut of your journey.
Emstrur is basically a collection of cabins linked together by a boardwalk and the camping options are more limited here as the location is sandwiched between a stream and a hillside. Make sure you save some energy for a hike to nearby Markarfljótsgljúfur Canyon. Stunningly beautiful, the over 650’ deep canyon was formed in a single event when the nearby Katla Volcano erupted under Mýrdalsjökull Glacier and sent torrents of water flooding through the area some 2,000 years ago. The canyon walls will impress you with the variety of color including deep reds, bright greens, black lava rocks, and icy blue waters. If you look closely you can even see what appear to be faces in the canyon walls perhaps carved by the Huldufólk or “hidden people” of Icelandic folklore.
On the final day of your journey you’ll approach the Mýrdalsjökull Glacier and then turn away as you head towards Þórsmörk (“Thor’s Woods”) and the valley below that was said to have inspired Tolkien to write ‘Lord of the Rings’. After crossing a river you’ll find yourself in a forest for the first time on this trek and the trees will welcome you and line your path to the end of your journey. For the purist, and those adding the trek to the coast, this will be the Langidalur hut. For those simply there to enjoy the journey this will be the nearby Volcano Huts which serves a hot buffet lunch as you wait for the bus back to Reykjavik. I’ve done both and won’t give a recommendation here for as they say, “hike your own hike”.
However you make your back to Reykjavik you’ll travel with the pride of having traveled the Laugavegur and with cherished memories of amazing scenery, new experiences, and new friends made. If this sounds appealing to you we offer a guided option each July and can also arrange for private groups. Going on our trip is not only easier, in terms of planning and preparation, than going it alone, it’s also safer and less expensive. We take care of all the planning for you and our trips include everything except airfare and meals in Reykjavik. Even all of the necessary rental gear is included and you are led by experienced, licensed guides that are also great cooks. You can learn more on our website (https://www.iagadventures.com/trips/iceland-backpacking-adventure). öruggar ferðir (Safe Travels)