ALONE IN THE ARCTIC: MY JOURNEY ON THE ARCTIC CIRCLE TRAIL (DAY 5)

ALONE IN THE ARCTIC: MY JOURNEY ON THE ARCTIC CIRCLE TRAIL

Day 5

SEPTEMBER 6TH, 2014

(EQALUGAARNIARFIK to INNAJUATTOQ)

MILES WALKED: 11.8 

From L to R (Jorgen, Mikkel, Kevin, Søren)

            I woke up with the rest of my hut-mates and enjoyed breakfast and a few cups of coffee with my new friends.  They would be returning to the hut later that day so while I was packing up to move on they were getting ready to head out for the hunt.  We posed for a few photos, including the one above, and I walked with them towards the water source before we said our goodbyes.  I looked forward to seeing them in Sisimiut in a few days and learning more about their lives and culture. 

            The route after passing the water source is an old bulldozed road that was created to bring heavy equipment in to build the earthen dam nearby.  Still foggy from the morning and reflecting on the past few days, I missed the turnoff to the left and didn’t realize it until I reached the dam.  I backtracked and quickly found my way as I climbed up on a ridge that provided sweeping views of the many lakes in my vicinity.  I later learned that my hunter friends saw me miss the turn but were too far away to call out to me.

            It was a beautiful day but the flies were definitely thick in some spots so I kept my mosquito net at the ready, looped over my boonie hat so I could quickly deploy it when needed.  Fortunately flies weren’t the only life besides me on the path that day and I surprised a small herd of Reindeer (Tuttu in Greenlandic) that were grazing in a saddle as I crossed over the ridge.  Guess they figured all of the hikers were already gone this year but I was a late arrival.  I did notice that I saw a lot more Reindeer the further I got from the area around the airport and now, the Maliaq inlet.  These deer were smart and avoided the areas that were frequently hunted.  No one wants to drag a deer carcass for miles up and down mountains so they were safe just a few miles in, except for being startled by the last hiker of the season. 

            Passing through a series of wet valleys as I made my way to Innajuattoq led me through several bogs where upon passing through there would either be 7 trails or none.  I was already halfway across the last valley before the hut when, seeing that things didn’t get better ahead, I decided to detour to the foot of the mountains to the south in hopes of dry ground.  Keep in mind that I was scouting out the route in order to lead future trips so it was more important to find the best way through the valley than to just pass through as quickly as possible.

            Trudging uphill in search of a better route, I’d step in deep pockets of water that would flow over my gaiters and into my boots.  It was cold, wet, slow going as I searched for solid ground but eventually I found a good path and made note of it for next year’s trip.  I climb up slightly and then see enter the next valley, at the foot of Innajuattoq where two huts are located.

            Spotting the smaller hut on a small hill I thought about checking it out first to see if it was empty in case the larger, more “luxurious” lakeside hut is full but I’m tired, cold, and wet, so I decide to take my chances rather than add on the extra distance at this point.  I’ve read that this second hut is hidden from view until you’re right on top of it but as I get closer and closer to the lake I begin to worry that I’ve missed it somehow until the rooftop suddenly pops into view as I round a small hill. 

            I see that the door is still latched from the outside so I’m relieved to see that I’ll have it to myself tonight.  I really enjoyed meeting and spending time with my new friends last night but I’m also starting to enjoy having entire cabins to myself where I can throw my stuff around and not worry about waking anyone if I arrive late or leave early.  This hut is particularly nice, with a kitchen area, breakfast nook, and a separate bunk room. 

            I gather water from the lake, ice cold and crystal clear, before returning to my luxurious hut to prepare dinner; dehydrated chicken breasts with hot sauce and mashed potatoes, and chocolate pudding for dessert and licorice spice tea to keep me company as I read the entries in the hut journal by headlamp and candlelight.  As I prepare for bed I note in my journal that I’m “Looking forward to Sisimiut” but that’s still 3 days away. 

Dinner with a view